Lilacs in August

Lilacs in August? Yes. Josee reblooms! This dwarf lilac blooms on new growth all summer long. If you don't have this one in your planting, you can correct that situation in September and enjoy lilacs until frost this year. As a dwarf it has a maximum height of 6 feet, but you can maintain a shorter plant with pruning.

Unlike other lilacs which bloom only once, Josee blooms and blooms from May until frost. Since the lavender-pink blooms appear on new growth, you are safe shearing the plant when the bloom fades and dries.

Remember other lilacs should be pruned after they bloom to produce bloom for next year. You can feed now to produce blooms next year. A good 12-12-12 fertilizer works well.

Bagworms! Eradicate now.

Bagworms, found east of the Rockies, plague evergreens and other plants. Spray or handpick bags NOW. Eggs are hatching in those leather-like bags hanging on your evergreens. Larvae crawl out and feed on foliage, slowing destroying your beautiful plant in the process. Then they create their own "bag". Once they seclude themselves inside, they are impervious to any spray you apply.

How do you eradicate them? Spray or handpick bags RIGHT NOW. Spray the entire plant with malathion or check your local garden shop for another good product. If you are hesitant to use chemicals, then your next best method is to handpick and destroy the bags or spray with BTK, a microbial biological control (ask for it at your garden store).

If you choose to handpick the bags, use a knife or hand pruners to cut the silk from the twig. if you tear the bag off, you leave a coil of tightly wound silk. It will girdle the twig and cause a different problem.

If the bags are left on your plant, the caterpillars will slowly defoliate the plant, weaken it, and in a couple of seasons, or so, the plant will die.

Be aware that bagworms are not limited to evergreens. They will eat foliage from any plant and use it to create bags. So if you find them in evergreens, check every tree and shrub in your landscape. Vigilance is key in eradication and protecting your beautiful plants spring after spring.

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Spring bulbs. Dig now or later?

Spring bulbs in north central Indiana have lost their blooms and beginning to lose foliage color. They can start to look pretty ratty in the garden. Do yours need division?

A friend asked me today when she was supposed to dig her tulip bulbs for division and replanting. I'm sure we all believe we should dig them, dry them, store them, and replant them in the fall.

But.......we do not have to follow that regimen. To be certain I offered her correct information I checked myself with an old reference source sitting in our gardening/nursery book case. I see it was copyrighted in 1965 and we purchased it in 1966, 43 years ago. The Rockwells' Complete Guide to Successful Gardening by Fredrick Rockwell and Esther Grayson. It is still accurate.

I told my friend that she can dig them now if the foliage has "ripened" or lost its color. It's good to do it now while you can easily identify the bulb. Dig them, separate them, and replant them where you want them.

Be certain to replant them to the correct depth. If it should be planted to a depth of 6 inches, that means to measure from the top of the bulb to the surface. One way to achieve that depth is to place a the long handle of a tool (or a long wooden spoon) over the hole and stick a ruler into the hole to measure from the top of the bulb to the surface. A bulb planter is helpful because it has measurements on it.

Here is what my reference says:

"After being dug, the bulbs are dried off, preferably in a cool place under cover, spread out in flats so that air can reach them freely. After drying, store in bags or boxes, away from direct sunshine, and safe from rodents, until time for replanting in autumn. Daffodils being poisonous, are safe from the attacks of rodents. As they start new root growth early it is quite all right to replant these as soon as they have been pulled apart, if this is more convenient than to dry and store them." p. 199

If it's time for division of bulbs in your garden, I hope this helps.

Hungry Plants need nourishment

Yes! We are hungry! When plants stir from dormancy after a long cold winter in the Midwest, they need some nourishment.

Last week, I fed roses, rhododendrons, azaleas, yews, vinca ground cover, boxwood, hollies, and blueberries with an acid fertilizer. Many of mine were looking a little anemic and this serving of plant food should jump start them. They will green up quickly and put out new growth.

You can do the same in your plant beds.

Drought Resistant Wildflowers

Wildflowers create a riot of color in the garden. Every region of our great country has its indigenous wildflowers. The Midwest is blessed with coneflowers, oxeye daisies, rudbeckias, false indigo, columbine, hollyhocks, and many others.

They dig deep into the soil and draw moisture from the depths, making them drought resistant plants. I keep one plant bed for daylilies, bulbs, wildflowers, and other self-seeding flowers. Because they are self-seeding, I can't mulch to control weeds, so weeds usually get ahead of me in the spring.

My wildflower bed is springing to life with new plants, so it is time to clean out the dried stalks from last year's flowers. I leave coneflowers, rudbeckies, and hollyhock stocks, etc. standing through the winter months. Seed heads provide food for winter birds and interesting architectural elements in the snow.

The dried stalks break off easily at ground level; then I rake them into piles and gather them for disposal. If you compost, add them to the compost heap, but only if they are disease free. If they are diseased, burn them or dispose of them away from your garden area. I put mine on a burn pile.

I'll enjoy bouquets on the table from now until frost.

Gnarledly Ugly Weeping Mulberry

Trusty loppers and hand pruners in hand, I tackled a tangle of limbs in my weeping mulberry. The limbs were a tangled mess because, over the years, I pruned incorrectly. I cut long tendrils back, maybe half way to their source. The cut created an apical bud which produced new growth at that point.

I had long graceful tendrils from the top of the tree, and I had short branches from the middle of the trimmed tendrils. Limbs close to the trunk got thicker and more gnarledly ugly.

A few days ago I decided to do something about it. I decided I couldn't make it worse and at this point, almost anything would be an improvement. I cut and pulled and cut and pulled until a huge pile of of limbs lay on the ground. I was careful to go all the way to the beginning of the branch, so any new growth should begin there. My husband finished the job with a tree saw and removed large bare stubs from the inside.

Presently, the tree is denuded, but wonderfully thinned. I'm confident new leaves will soon cover the branches and they will hang to the ground before summer's end, creating a cool secluded "hide away" for grandsons.

Asparagus!

O frabjous day! Callooh! Callay!" Asparagus! I harvested my first lunch sized crop yesterday. This morning, I had the joy of teaching Jesse, my ten year old grandson, how to harvest asparagus.

This is a treat one must plan for in advance. I planted several crowns in a 6 inch deep furrow with composted horse manure and good garden soils last spring. I could have increased my yield if I had applied 1 pound 0-46-0 (triple superphosphate) or 2 pounds of 0-20-0 (superphosphate), or 4 pounds of steamed bone meal per 50 feet of row.

If you plant some this spring, and now is the time, put the phosphate in the bottom of the furrow before planting. This will make phosphorus immediately available to the crowns. I had asparagus fern last year and did not harvest any, but am now enjoying the reward of planning ahead.

When the ground temperature reaches 50F, asparagus sends up shoots. Early in the season, 7 to 9 inch spears may be harvested every 2 to 4 days. As air temperatures increase, harvesting will increase to once or twice per day, harvesting 5 to 7 inch spears before the tips start to fern out and lose quality.

Just snap the spears off. There is no need to cut asparagus below the soil with a knife. In fact, this may injure other buds on the crown that will send up new spears. The small stub that is left in the soil after snapping ,dries up and disintegrates. New spears come from another bud on the crown not the old spot.

Research shows that you do not need to wait 2 years before harvesting newly planted asparagus. Actually, harvesting the first year several times throughout a three-week period, will stimulate more bud production on the crown and provide greater yields in future years.

Two years after planting, the harvest time increases to about 4 to 6 weeks, depending on air temperature. Stop harvesting when the diameter of 3/4 of the spears becomes small (less than 3/8 inch).

At your last harvest, snap all the spears off at ground level and apply 1/2 pound of ammonium nitrate fertilizer per 50 feet of row or sidedress with fish emulsion or similar material. Remove weeds. New spears emerge, fern out, and create a large canopy to cover the space between the rows which shades out weed growth.

Leave the tops on as long as they are green. This foliage makes the food reserves to store for next year's crop.

Morning is the best time to harvest. Immerse the spears in ice cold water to remove the heat and store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator at 38-40 degrees F. Asparagus keeps for 1 to 2 weeks with little loss of quality.

So steam some asparagus; make a sandwich, sip a cup of coffee, and enjoy. O frabjous day! Callooh! Callay!" From The Jabberwocky by Lewis Carroll

Grass needs a haircut.

Lush lawns take work and mowing properly is key to building a lush lawn. When I drive through a neighborhood and see grass cut so short, I can almost see the soil, I lament. That poor homeowner will probably spend money on fertilizer to encourage his grass to grow and weed killer to destroy the weeds he encourages with SHORT grass. But wait, a dry spell is on its way in late summer and a brown lawn for this poor fellow.

Grass is more than a stem, but when we cut it short, all we have left are stems. Set your mower high and cut grass at least 3 inches high. Then you will see blades (leaves) on the stems. Cutting the grass high encourages more growth in the roots, produces more stems with more blades of grass on the stems, and creates a thick carpet that begs for bare feet.

Thick grass saves you money and enhances your environment in the process. Who isn't interested in saving hard earned money? Thick grass discourages weeds, so you purchase less weed killers. Thick grass is more immune to dry spells in late summer, so you save money on watering, not to mention the time saved for more interesting pursuits.

So set your mower deck high, (mine is as high as it will go) and enjoy a greener summer.

Rhubarb! Scrumpdelecious!

Rhubarb stirs pleasant childhood memories in my soul. A freshly pulled stalk, wiped clean on my shorts or shirt, and popped into my mouth produced an unforgettable sweet/sour taste that I can actually feel in my mouth as I think about it. Remember how those glands on either side of your mouth react to sour tastes? I can feel it now.

My mom had a big patch of rhubarb along a fence row bordering her rather huge garden. She created lots of rhubarb treats through the spring while it was crisp, tender, and TART!

Rhubarb, fresh cut, combined with juicy red strawberries, then tucked between two crusts and baked for 50 minutes at 425 F produced my first pie for the spring season.

My husband, David, and I, each savored a warm, juicy slice with glasses of cold milk.

I planted a pot of Canadian Red Rhubarb in a plant bed last spring. I had access to some composted horse manure and worked that into the soil at the time. Then a couple of weeks ago I dug some rich humus soil in around the plant. Although our spring has been cold and wet, the rhubarb has thrived. So Tuesday, I pulled all the largest stalks and made a pie. Pulling large stalks stimulates the plant to produce more.

Composted horse or cow manure is a good amendment to any soil. Check out your local garden supply for bags or if you are fortunate, perhaps a neighbor has a pile near the horse barn. Composed manures are odor free, so you can use them near the house or wherever you need them.

No compost available? There are many alternatives including Proven Winners plant foods.

Back to childhood memories. Our next door neighbor's rhubarb patch flourished near our gravel drive. The leaves on those plants were so large, they served as umbrellas on rainy childhood days. I wonder if little girls still make umbrellas from rhubarb leaves and splash in the puddles?

Roses, love them or hate them.

Roses, love them or hate them. My tea and grandiflora roses may be DEAD! I neglected to throw some extra soil up against the canes last fall after the ground froze. They look dead now. There appears to be a little green near the base so I'll wait for a while and see if the growth is above the graft or below the graft. Thankfully, I only have three!

I'm glad I planted shrub roses last year. They are hardy souls and are already flushing out. I added two to a plant bed. They took off like rockets and grew from a 2 gallon pot size to about 18 inches tall by 20-24 inches wide in one season.

We fight Japanese Beetles in the summer and they love the leaves on roses, but shrub roses thrive in spite of the pesky beetles.

Shrub roses produce abundant and continuous blooms all summer until frost. These low maintenance beauties are hardy, disease resistant, and fragrant. A light shearing removes spent blossoms when you see lots of them. You don't have to shear them because they will continue to produce new growth and bloom over the spent blooms.

Last week, I used my hedge pruners and cut them back to about half their size and shaped them a little. Yesterday, I dug some rose food into the soil and now I'll stand back and watch while they deliver weeks of breath taking beauty.

So put a couple in your garden space, sit back and enjoy the show.

Buy Proven Winners Shrubs and Perennials

at http://www.gardensandsuch.com.

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Ornamental Grass? Cut it down.

Ornamental grasses require serious spring pruning. My Zebra Grass was beautiful last summer. Two clumps started out as 2 gallon plants about five years ago and now, by the end of summer, they are higher than my head and about 30 inches in diameter.

I like to leave the tall stalks standing for winter and architectural interest in the garden. The seed heads provide some needed food for birds, too.

Now, the browned dry stalks must make way for new growth. The last few years I have used my handy dandy hand pruners to cut, cut, cut through stalks, a long blister producing process. Yesterday, I tried a different technique.

I wrapped heavy twine around the plant near the bottom. Notice the red horizontal line. That's my twine. I pulled it as tight as I could and tied it in place. This morning, my walking partner said, "Joe would have used a bungee cord. He uses bungee cords for everything." I think that would be an excellent option. Duct tape might be another option . I think one of these options used in the center of the stalk might hold it together so you have a bundle after the cutting process.

My husband, David, brought out the heavy artillery, his chain saw. He fired it up and cut through the stalks below my twine. If you use twine, cut off any excess. I didn't, and it clogged up the chain. We discovered that if I pulled the stalks away from the saw, it speeded the process on the second clump. Pulling the loose stalks away from the saw also lessened the likelihood of jamming the chain with loose grass.

Cut them down close to the ground, 4 inches, or so.

The clean up process was simple. David gathered the stalks in his arms and put them into the back of the pickup. Now, I just need to rake the remaining debris and I'm ready for new growth.

Pruning Spirea

Proven Winners Snow Storm Spirea reminds me of the old fashioned spirea with massive white blooms in April. Proven Winners Pink Parasols Spirea produces big, pink, fluffy, umbrella-like blooms and cover a mounded, spreading shrub in June.

I just finished pruning my spirea. They collect lots of leaves in the winter and the easiest way to remove them is to cut the spirea back to about 4 to 6 inches tall. Then I use a metal tined garden rake and pull them out. It is safe to do this early in the spring because Spirea japonica blooms on new wood. That means a light shearing after bloom fades encourages a new flush of growth and more bloom.

Forsythia & Lilac Pruning Tips

Spring has arrived in Indiana. My daffodils have started blooming and I have started ridding flower beds of winter debris and last year's dried stalks.

Some Proven Winners Show Off Forsythia will find a new home in my garden this spring, just as soon as the danger of freeze is gone. Yellow reinvigorates me after a long winter. If your forsythia is blooming, enjoy it for a few more days. If you plan to reduce the size of your forsythia by pruning, the right time is after it blooms. That gives the plant all summer to grow and create bud for next year. If you wait until the end of the season to prune, you will trim the new buds and you will have little or no bloom in the spring of 2010.

Remember, many woody flowering plants bloom on old wood. Another old wood bloomer I love is the lilac. The buds on my Miss Kim Lilac (a dwarf) are beginning to swell. I'm expecting beautiful blooms next month.

Again, trim lilacs after the bloom fades to ensure spring 2010 blooms!

Getting ready for Spring

For all of you, who like me, are counting the days down until the first day of spring, welcome to Gardens and Such. This is a blog by the owners of GardensAndSuch.com. We're here to talk about the care, feeding, trimming, planting, etc. of your landscape bedding plants.

We hope to offer valuable advice about things such as: when to prune and when not to prune, when to feed, when to plant…you see what we mean.

So, if you're reading, and have a question, don't hesitate to post a comment. We'll get right back to you. Or, is there something we haven't covered yet? Then, start the conversation.

Until the next post, I will be picking up sticks and debris that the wind and winter weather knocked down from our trees. When the temps reach sweatshirt levels, I will be raking left over fall debris from the plant beds and trimming back ornamental grasses. Think about this in your own garden. Getting this done ahead of time will keep it from crowding out time for planting new perennials. Getting them started in the spring will ensure established plants by late summer.

It's also time to think about planting evergreens, fruits, and flowering shrubs. If you live in the midwest, consider adding some prairie plants to your garden.